Windsor Beyond the Castle: A Royal Day Out

Most visitors give Windsor a few hurried hours and a castle ticket. The royal town on the Thames rewards a slower day. It has ancient parkland, glorious gardens, a river made for boating and the meadow where Magna Carta was sealed.

Why Windsor Deserves More Than a Morning

Windsor is the classic royal day out from London, and for good reason. The castle is still a royal residence, and it feels like a working home rather than a museum. But step away from the crowds on Castle Hill and a quieter Windsor appears: a three-mile avenue of trees running into thousands of acres of royal parkland, woodland gardens bursting with colour in spring, a lake with a Roman ruin on its shore, and the water meadows of Runnymede a short boat ride downstream.

We recommend seeing the castle early, then spending the rest of the day, or better an overnight stay, exploring the royal landscape around it.

Windsor Castle: The Essentials

Begin with the castle, ideally as the gates open. Highlights include:

• The State Apartments: A sequence of richly furnished rooms used for state occasions, hung with masterpieces from the Royal Collection. Look out for St George’s Hall and the Waterloo Chamber.
• St George’s Chapel: One of the finest examples of Perpendicular Gothic architecture in England, begun under Edward IV in 1475 and completed in 1528. Ten sovereigns are buried here, among them Henry VIII, Jane Seymour and Charles I beneath the quire, and Queen Elizabeth II, who rests in the King George VI Memorial Chapel. Note that the chapel is closed to sightseers on Sundays, when visitors are welcome at services instead.
• The Semi-State Rooms: Usually open in the autumn and winter months, these more intimate rooms are a lovely bonus if your visit falls in season.

Opening days

Windsor Castle is normally open Thursday to Monday and closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. From November to February it opens from 10am to 4.15pm, and from March to October until 5.15pm, with last admission 75 minutes before closing. As a working royal palace it can also close at short notice for official events, so always check the Royal Collection Trust website before you travel. Book ahead at weekends and in school holidays. Windsor Castle entry tickets can be booked ahead, or combined with transport on a guided Windsor day trip from London.

Changing the Guard

The Windsor Castle Guard usually changes at 11am on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, weather permitting, with a band or Corps of Drums marching through the town. The ceremony itself takes place in the castle’s Lower Ward, so you need a castle ticket to watch it there; on Tuesdays, when the castle is closed, you can still enjoy the march along the High Street for free. The schedule changes through the year, so check the Household Division’s Changing the Guard calendar a week or two before your visit.

The Long Walk and Windsor Great Park

From the castle’s south side, the Long Walk runs in a dead-straight, tree-lined avenue for around two and a half miles to Snow Hill, crowned by the Copper Horse, a great equestrian statue of George III. The view back towards the castle from the top is one of the most famous in England.

Beyond lies Windsor Great Park, managed by the Crown Estate. It is open daily and free to enter, a vast landscape of ancient oaks and lakes; you pay only for parking, the Savill Garden and a few seasonal events. In winter, the park’s illuminated light trail is a festive draw: it usually runs from mid-November into early January, so check dates and book ahead.

The Savill Garden

Created in the 1930s by Sir Eric Savill, this 35-acre garden in the southern reaches of the park is a year-round delight: woodland walks, ornamental beds, a rose garden and superb autumn colour. Admission is ticketed, and booking online at least a day in advance usually gives the best price.

Virginia Water and the Valley Gardens

At the southern edge of the park, the lake at Virginia Water makes a beautiful, largely level circuit of around four and a half to five miles, about two hours on foot. Along the way you pass the Cascade waterfall, a towering totem pole, and the romantic Leptis Magna ruins, genuine Roman columns brought from Libya and rebuilt as a folly. Just above the lake’s northern shore, the Valley Gardens are a woodland garden of azaleas, camellias, magnolias and heathers, at their peak from April to May.

Frogmore House and Eton

Frogmore House and Gardens

Set in the private Home Park, Frogmore House has been a royal retreat since George III and Queen Charlotte acquired it in the 1790s, and it hosted the evening reception after the Duke and Duchess of Sussex’s wedding in May 2018. Access is very limited: the house and gardens open to individual visitors on only a handful of charity open days a year, with pre-booked group visits at other times. Dates are announced by the Royal Collection Trust, so check well in advance if you want to include it.

Eton College

Cross the footbridge over the Thames and you are in Eton, with its charming High Street and the famous school founded by Henry VI. Note that Eton College’s public Heritage Tours have been paused for building works; check the Eton College Collections website for the current programme. Its museums usually open free on Sunday afternoons, though some are closed during the works.

Runnymede and the Thames by Boat

A few miles downstream, the National Trust cares for Runnymede, the water meadows where King John sealed Magna Carta in 1215. The domed Magna Carta Memorial was designed by Sir Edward Maufe for the American Bar Association and dedicated in 1957, which makes it a particularly meaningful stop for American travellers. Nearby stands the John F. Kennedy Memorial, on an acre of land given to the United States, and Mark Wallinger’s contemplative artwork Writ in Water, which opened in 2018 and reflects Clause 39 of the charter in a still pool. There is a tea-room, and parking is free for National Trust members.

The loveliest way to arrive is by river. French Brothers run short round trips from Windsor’s riverside through much of the year, and in summer a scheduled service links Runnymede and Windsor, giving you time ashore at each end. Timetables vary by season, so check before you go, or book a Windsor Thames river cruise in advance.

Royal Ascot Nearby

Each June, the royal procession of horse-drawn carriages opens five days of racing at Royal Ascot, a short drive from Windsor. The meeting runs for five days in mid-June each year, so check the official Ascot website and book early. Windsor’s best hotels fill months ahead for race week.

Where to Stay: Luxury Near Windsor

Coworth Park, Ascot

Dorchester Collection’s country house hotel sits in some 240 acres of parkland near Ascot, with its own polo fields, a spa and Adam Smith’s acclaimed restaurant, Woven. The Stable Rooms, Suites and Cottages were recently redesigned by Martin Hulbert. Check availability at Coworth Park.

Cliveden House, Taplow

A short drive up the Thames, Cliveden House is a five-star stately home hotel set within National Trust grounds. Its history is irresistible, from the Astors to the Profumo affair, and Meghan Markle stayed here the night before her 2018 wedding at St George’s Chapel. Expect indoor and outdoor pools, a spa in the walled garden and memorable afternoon tea.

Sir Christopher Wren Hotel, Windsor

For a stay in town, the Sir Christopher Wren Hotel occupies a cluster of historic buildings by Eton Bridge, with a Grade II listed 17th-century core and a riverside brasserie. It is a few minutes’ walk from both the castle and Windsor & Eton Central station.

Note that the Gothic riverside mansion of Oakley Court is being reinvented by Soho House as Soho River House, a members’ club with rooms; check whether it has opened.

Getting There

• From London Waterloo: South Western Railway runs direct trains to Windsor & Eton Riverside, taking around 55 minutes to an hour.
• From London Paddington: Take a Great Western Railway train to Slough and change for the short branch line to Windsor & Eton Central, about six minutes on. The total journey is typically around 25 to 40 minutes, depending on connections.
• By car: Windsor lies west of London, close to Heathrow, which makes it an easy first or last night of a British tour.

Both stations are a short walk from the castle. For the Great Park, Virginia Water and Runnymede, a car or private driver makes life easier.

A Perfect Royal Day Out

1. 9.30am: Arrive by train and walk up to the castle for opening time.
2. 11am: Watch Changing the Guard in the Lower Ward (on guard days), then visit St George’s Chapel.
3. 1pm: Lunch in town, then walk the Long Walk to the Copper Horse.
4. 3pm: Drive to the Savill Garden for a cream tea, or stroll the shores of Virginia Water.
5. 5pm: Pause at Runnymede as the light softens over the meadows.
6. Evening: Dinner and a night at Coworth Park or Cliveden.

For a longer trip, our guide to Michelin-starred dining in London makes a fine prelude.

FAQs

Which days is Windsor Castle closed?

It is normally closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, and occasionally on other days for royal or state events. Check the Royal Collection Trust website before you go.

Is Windsor Great Park free?

Yes. The park, the Long Walk and Virginia Water are free to enter; you pay for parking and for entry to the Savill Garden.

Can you tour Eton College?

Public Heritage Tours have been paused for building works. Check the Eton College Collections website for the current programme.

How long do you need in Windsor?

A full day covers the castle, the Long Walk and one more garden or Runnymede. Stay a night to enjoy it all without rushing.